Few evergreens earn their keep the way arborvitae does. This dense, scale-leaved conifer in the genus Thuja gives you a living privacy screen, a tidy foundation shrub, a formal hedge, or a sculptural specimen, all from the same easygoing plant. It is hardy, fast to fill in, and asks for almost nothing once its roots take hold. The name comes from the French l’arbre de vie, or tree of life, a tribute to the vitamin C in its foliage that cured scurvy-stricken French explorers in the 16th century. Here is how to plant, grow, and troubleshoot arborvitae so it stays green from the ground up for decades.
Quick facts about arborvitae
- Botanical name: Thuja occidentalis (American), Thuja plicata (giant), and hybrids such as ‘Green Giant’
- Mature size: anywhere from 1-foot dwarf globes to 60-foot trees, depending on cultivar
- Sun exposure: full sun to partial shade (at least 6 hours of direct sun for dense growth)
- Soil: moist, well-drained loam; tolerates clay if drainage is improved
- Hardiness zones: USDA 2 to 8, varying by species and cultivar
- Growth rate: 1 to 2 feet per year for most types; up to 3 to 4 feet for ‘Green Giant’
- Best planting time: early spring or fall
What arborvitae is and where it comes from
Arborvitae is an evergreen conifer in the cypress family (Cupressaceae), closely related to juniper, cypress, and redwood. There are only five true Thuja species, two of them native to North America and the others to East Asia. Instead of the round needles you picture on a pine, arborvitae carries flattened, fan-like sprays of soft, scale-like foliage that hugs the branch. Crush a sprig and you get a clean, citrusy, woodland scent. Most plants hold a broadly pyramidal shape, with reddish-brown, fibrous bark that peels in stringy flakes as the plant ages. Small, rosebud-shaped cones about half an inch long appear in early summer and ripen from green to nutmeg-brown.
The foliage fills in all the way to the ground, which is exactly why arborvitae is the default choice for a living fence. Be aware that some plants sold as arborvitae, such as Hiba and Russian arborvitae, actually belong to other genera (Thujopsis and Microbiota) and behave differently, so check the botanical name on the tag.
Types of arborvitae and which one to choose
Choosing the right type matters more than any care step, because a plant that outgrows its space is the most common reason a hedge fails. Match the cultivar to the job before you buy.
American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)
This is the plant most people picture: hardy to Zone 2 or 3, broadly pyramidal, and available in more than 100 cultivars ranging from foot-tall globes to 40- to 60-foot trees. It is the most widely sold and the most adaptable to cold, but its soft foliage is also the most appealing to deer. Popular cultivars include the slim ‘Emerald Green’ (also sold as ‘Smaragd’), the dwarf round ‘Hetz Midget’ and ‘Tom Thumb’, the columnar ‘North Pole’, and the golden ‘Golden Globe’.
Giant arborvitae or western red cedar (Thuja plicata)
Native to the Pacific Northwest, this species can top 70 feet in cultivation and far more in the wild. Its darker, glossier foliage and slightly drooping branches give it a more natural, forest-like look, and it shrugs off deer far better than American arborvitae. It thrives in cooler, coastal climates (roughly Zones 5 to 8) but struggles in hot, humid summers.
‘Green Giant’ (Thuja standishii x plicata)
A hybrid of western red cedar and Japanese arborvitae, ‘Green Giant’ is the fastest-growing privacy option on the market, putting on 3 to 4 feet a year and reaching 40 to 60 feet tall and 12 to 18 feet wide. It holds its green color through winter and is moderately deer-resistant. For screening out a two-story view in just a few seasons, nothing beats it.
How to pick: Emerald Green vs. Green Giant
These two account for most privacy purchases, and confusing them leads to crowded, browning hedges. The difference comes down to scale:
- Choose ‘Emerald Green’ for small yards, narrow side strips, and formal hedges. It stays slim (12 to 15 feet tall, 3 to 4 feet wide), grows 1 to 2 feet a year, and needs almost no shearing to look tidy.
- Choose ‘Green Giant’ for large lots, fast tall screens, and windbreaks. It grows two to three times faster but needs real room, both up and out, so it crowds quickly along a fence line or near a house.
For tight spaces where even ‘Emerald Green’ feels wide, look at pencil-thin cultivars such as ‘Sting’ or compact globes like ‘Tater Tot’ and ‘Anna’s Magic Ball’ for edging and containers.
When and how to plant arborvitae
Early spring and fall are the best planting windows, when cooler air reduces heat stress and seasonal rain helps roots establish. Pick a spot with at least 6 hours of direct sun; in full shade the foliage thins and loses its dense, screening quality. The single most important site condition is drainage. More arborvitae are lost to soggy soil and root rot than to anything else, so avoid low spots where water stands, and amend heavy clay with organic matter before you dig.
To plant:
- Loosen the soil across the planting area to improve drainage, then dig a hole two to three times as wide as the root ball but no deeper. The top of the root ball should sit an inch above the surrounding soil, never below it, so the roots can breathe and settle without suffocating.
- Remove the plant from its container and gently tease out any roots that are circling or potbound.
- Set the plant in the hole, spread the roots, and backfill with the excavated soil. Tamp lightly to remove air pockets, but do not stomp the soil down hard or compact it with your feet.
- Water thoroughly to settle the soil, then spread 2 inches of shredded bark or other organic mulch over the root zone, keeping it a few inches back from the trunk.
- Water deeply at least twice a week, whenever it does not rain, until the roots are established.
Spacing for a privacy hedge
Spacing is where most hedges go wrong, and the mistake shows up years later as a green wall that is hollow and brown inside. Give plants room based on their mature width, not their nursery size:
- ‘Emerald Green’: 3 feet apart for a dense screen, 4 feet for better air circulation.
- ‘Green Giant’ and other large types: 5 to 6 feet apart.
Planting closer than this, especially the tempting 2-foot spacing for instant coverage, sets up a hedge that browns from the inside within three to five years. Once neighboring plants permanently shade each other’s interior branches, those branches drop their foliage, and the trapped, slow-drying interior becomes ideal for fungal needle blight. Staggering the plants in a loose zig-zag instead of a single tight row looks more natural and improves airflow.
How to care for arborvitae
Light
Most arborvitae tolerate a wide range of light, from full sun to partial shade. They will not thrive in deep shade, and the more sun they get, the denser and more richly colored the foliage. In hot climates, a little afternoon shade is welcome.
Water
Newly planted arborvitae need consistent moisture: about twice a week for the first season, more often in heat above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist but never saturated, delivering roughly an inch of water a week to the root zone with a soaker hose or a slow hose trickle rather than overhead spray. Once established, arborvitae handles brief dry spells, but extended drought browns the foliage and erodes the plant’s health. The flip side is just as risky: overwatering and poor drainage cause root rot, so let the soil dry slightly between deep waterings. Potted arborvitae need water even in winter, since evergreens never go fully dormant.
Soil
Excellent drainage is the one non-negotiable. Arborvitae tolerates most soil textures and a wide pH range, but it will not survive wet feet. Improve clay and boggy sites with organic matter, install drainage where needed, or simply plant elsewhere.
Fertilizer
In good soil, an established arborvitae rarely needs feeding. If growth is sparse or a soil test shows a deficiency, apply a slow-release fertilizer with a higher nitrogen ratio, such as 10-5-5 or 10-4-4, in early spring to fuel green growth. Use a balanced organic blend if you prefer. Wait until plants are established before fertilizing, water before and after applying to avoid root burn, and feed containerized plants more regularly since nutrients leach out of pots.
Pruning
Arborvitae looks best left to its natural pyramidal shape and usually needs no pruning at all. When you do prune, work in late winter to early spring before new growth emerges. A few rules keep the plant from developing permanent bare patches:
- Trim only into the green, leafy part of a branch. New growth will not sprout from bare old wood, so cutting back to brown interior wood leaves a permanent dead gap.
- Keep the plant wider at the bottom than the top so the lower branches stay in the sun. Prune it into a V or top-heavy shape and the shaded lower foliage dies back.
- Never lop off the top to control height. The cut tip will not regrow, leaving a flat, permanent buzz cut. Use selective thinning cuts to reduce height instead.
- Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches at the trunk whenever you see them, and clear accumulated dead foliage from inside the plant each year to improve airflow.
Winter protection
Heavy, wet snow and ice can splay or snap the branches of taller arborvitae, especially multi-stemmed plants. Brush snow off gently with a broom before it accumulates, and tie up the leaders or wrap the plant loosely with twine in snow country to keep its shape. Winter sun and wind also desiccate the foliage faster than frozen roots can replace the moisture, causing reddish-brown winterburn; a burlap screen on the windward side and a thorough late-fall watering both help. Keep de-icing salt away from the roots, as salt buildup scorches the foliage.
How to propagate arborvitae
The easiest reliable method is rooting cuttings, which gives you an exact copy of the parent. In late summer or early fall, take 4- to 5-inch semi-hardwood cuttings from the tips of healthy branches, cutting cleanly at a 45-degree angle. Strip the foliage from the lower half, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and stick it into a 50:50 mix of peat moss and sand or damp, gritty sand. Keep the medium moist in bright, indirect light at 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Roots typically form in six to eight weeks, after which you can pot the cuttings up and grow them on before transplanting in spring.
Seed propagation works too but is slow and unpredictable, since seedlings vary genetically from the parent. Dry the brown autumn cones until the seeds drop, soak the seeds, then cold-stratify them in moist peat and perlite in the refrigerator for about 60 days before sowing.
Growing arborvitae in containers
Smaller and dwarf cultivars make excellent container plants and year-round focal points for entryways and patios. Choose a freeze-thaw-resistant pot a few inches wider than the root ball with ample drainage holes, and fill it with a high-quality potting mix made for evergreens rather than heavy garden soil. Water potted plants regularly through all four seasons, fertilize more often than in-ground plants, and refresh the soil or step up to a larger pot every year or two as the roots fill in.
Common problems, pests, and diseases
Arborvitae is famously trouble-free, but a few issues recur, and most trace back to crowding, poor drainage, or hungry wildlife.
Why is my arborvitae turning brown?
Browning is the question that brings most people to a guide like this, and the cure depends entirely on where and when the browning appears:
- Interior browning in fall. If the brown foliage is on older, interior branches near the trunk and shows up in autumn, this is normal seasonal needle drop. The plant sheds its oldest foliage every year, and it is nothing to worry about.
- Browning at the tips that works inward. This pattern signals stress or disease, not normal shedding. Suspect tip and needle blight (Pestalotiopsis, Phyllosticta, and related fungi), which thrives in crowded, poorly ventilated hedges. Prune off affected branches in dry weather, improve spacing and airflow, avoid overhead watering, and apply a fungicide if it spreads.
- Browning all over or on one side. Usually a water or planting problem: the plant dried out, sat in soggy soil, or was planted too deep. Check drainage and watering before anything else.
- Reddish-brown foliage after winter. Winterburn from sun, wind, or de-icing salt. Water well before dormancy and shield exposed plants with burlap.
- Grayish, dull, stippled foliage. Spider mites; rinse the plant and treat with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Deer and rabbits
The soft foliage of American arborvitae is a favorite winter browse for deer, and damaged areas do not always grow back. If deer are a problem, plant giant arborvitae or ‘Green Giant’ instead, both of which are far more resistant, and back them up with an 8-foot deer fence or granular repellent. Rabbits strip the lower foliage within their reach, so a buried hardware-cloth collar 18 to 24 inches tall protects young plants.
Insects and fungal disease
The main insect pests are spider mites and bagworms, with aphids and leaf miners occasionally browning the foliage. Handpick bagworm cocoons or treat with the appropriate insecticide right after they hatch, and control aphids and mites with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Beyond needle blight, watch for Seiridium canker, which causes oozing cankers on the trunk and individual branch dieback (flagging); there is no chemical cure, so prune out and remove infected wood and keep the plant otherwise healthy. Almost every disease problem is worsened by crowding, so proper spacing is the best prevention you have.
Putting arborvitae to work in the landscape
Beyond the obvious privacy hedge, arborvitae is one of the most versatile plants you can grow. Flank a front door with a matching pair for instant formality, line a property line or fence with a row of upright cultivars, or use a fast columnar type to screen an unsightly view. Dwarf globes edge pathways and anchor rock gardens, while a sculptural specimen can draw the eye through a mixed border alongside flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses, and perennials. Whether you want a structured green wall or a single year-round accent, there is an arborvitae sized for the spot, and once it is planted in well-drained soil with room to breathe, it will hold that spot, green and dense, for a generation. Match the cultivar to your space, give it sun and drainage, and let this tree of life do the rest.